Butteries
Butteries – or Rowies, as they’re also known – are a rich, flaky Scottish classic with layers of pastry-like bread. Once baked to fuel fishermen at sea, these savoury rolls are just as irresistible today, whether eaten plain or spread with jam.
Butteries – also known as Rowies – are a traditional bread from Aberdeen in Scotland. Once baked to fuel fishermen heading out to sea, they are high in calories and able to keep well for long periods, making them the perfect provision for long days on the North Sea. They were also seen as such an essential part of life in the North-East that during the Second World War, they even escaped the bread restrictions.
I’ll be honest… I’d never actually made Butteries until I was researching recipes for Scottish Bakes, but they’ve quickly become a favourite in our house. I like to think of them as a Scottish take on a croissant: delicious pastry-like bread, with lots of beautiful layers, made rich with plenty of fat and/or butter.
Since baking my first batch of Rowies, my husband has somewhat unexpectedly become completely obsessed. He happily eats them plain, while I love mine spread with a little jam. They do keep well, but honestly, nothing beats a Butterie, fresh from the oven.
Tips for Butteries / Rowies:
• Fat or Butter? Traditionalists will tell you that Butteries must be made with lard or shortening, while others insist on butter for a richer flavour. I like to use a combination of the two, giving you the best of both worlds: the authentic texture and keeping quality from the fat, and that lovely buttery taste. You do what works best for you.
• Don’t Rush the Lamination (Folding): The layers of fat between the dough are what make Butteries special. Be patient with the folding and rolling, it’s worth it for that flaky, pastry-like texture.
• Shape Doesn’t Need to Be Perfect: Traditional Butteries are rustic and a bit rough around the edges. Focus on the layers rather than overall neatness.
• Use Trays with Sides: When you bake your Rowies, fat will escape and pool on the baking tray. Because of that, make sure you use baking trays that have sides to them – it doesn’t need to be a lot, even just a centimetre or two. This will stop the fat from running off the trays, potenitally making a mess of your oven, or worse, burning you.
• Don’t Worry About the Fat: When you bake your Butteries, there will be a lot of fat that melts and escapes from the layers in the dough, pooling at the bottom of your tray. Don’t worry, this is normal. No one said they were healthy after all!
More Savoury Baking Recipes:
• Scottish Morning Rolls
• Traditional Tattie Scones
• Homemade Oatcakes
• Irish Soda Bread
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Butteries
EQUIPMENT
- Baking Trays (with sides)
INGREDIENTS
- 500 g Strong White Flour (Bread Flour) (plus extra for dusting)
- 7 g Fast-Action Yeast (usually 1 sachet)
- 1 tbsp Soft Light Brown Sugar
- 1 tsp Sea Salt
- 300 ml Warm Water (not boiling)
- 200 g Block Margarine or Butter
- 100 g Lard or Vegetable Shortening
INSTRUCTIONS
- Sift the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, sugar, and salt, and mix until combined. Make a well in the centre and pour in the warm water. Mix until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough – use your hands if needed.
- Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until smooth and pliable.
- Lightly grease a clean bowl, place the dough inside, and cover with greased cling film or a damp tea towel. Leave in a draught-free spot for 1–2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.
- In a separate bowl, mix the margarine/butter and lard/shortening until combined. Set aside. Line two baking trays (with sides – not flat baking sheets) with greaseproof paper and set them aside.
- Once the dough has doubled in size, gently knead it to release the air, then begin the lamination process:Roll the dough on a floured surface into a large rectangle, about 20x50cm. Spread ⅓ of the butter mixture over ⅔ of the dough (longways).Fold the unbuttered third inward, then fold the other end over it (like folding a letter). Rotate the dough 90°, roll it out again, and repeat with another ⅓ of the butter mixture.Perform this process one more time with the remaining ⅓ of the butter mixture. Don’t worry if some butter escapes, just dust with more flour as needed.
- Roll the dough to about 1cm thick and shape into a rough rectangle. Divide into 8 pieces with a sharp knife. Pinch the edges underneath each piece to form rough, round, flat shapes, and place them on the prepared baking trays.
- Loosely cover the butteries with greased cling film or a damp tea towel. Leave in a draught-free spot for 45 minutes, until slightly puffed up. Preheat your oven to 200°c (180°c fan-assisted ovens, Gas Mark 6 or 400°F).
- Remove the covering and bake the butteries in the preheated oven for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Don't worry about the excess fat that has melted onto the trays – this is normal but be careful not to burn yourself with it.
- Allow the butteries to cool slightly before lifting them from the trays (being careful of the hot fat) and transferring to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature, with jam spread on the underside.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
All my recipes are developed using a digital scale and the metric system (grams and millilitres). Cup measurements are available as a conversion but these, unfortunately, won’t always be as accurate. For best results, I always recommend baking with a digital scale.
RECIPE NOTES:
- Serving: Traditionally, Butteries are eaten plain or with jam spread on the underside. They’re also lovely with marmalade, or even served alongside a cooked breakfast. For the freshest taste, enjoy them warm from the oven.
- Storage: Keep your Butteries in an airtight container at room temperature. Although Butteries were intended to be kept for a little while, they are best enjoyed within 2–3 days of baking – though their flavour and texture are best on the day they’re baked
- Freezing: Butteries freeze really well. Once baked and cooled, pop them into a freezer bag and store for up to 3 months. To serve, defrost at room temperature and warm in a hot oven for a few minutes to refresh their flaky texture.
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Substitutions:
- Fat: Traditional Butteries use lard, but you can make them with lard, shortening, butter, margarine, or a mix of them. I find a combination of lard/shortening and butter/margarine gives the best flavour and texture.
- Dairy-Free/Vegan: Use a good-quality dairy-free block margarine and vegetable shortening.
- Flour: Strong white flour is best, but plain flour will also work if that’s what you have on hand, but the texture may be a little softer.
Butteries (also known as Rowies) are a traditional bread roll from Aberdeen. They’re pastry-like with lots of flaky layers, made with plenty of fat, which gives them a rich flavour and keeps them fresher for longer. Originally, they were baked to fuel fishermen at sea, thanks to their high calorie content and long shelf life. Nowadays you will find them in bakeries & supermarkets across Scotland, especially in the North.
Butteries are made by laminating a yeasted bread dough with a mixture of fat (traditionally lard, butter, or a combination of both). The dough is rolled, layered with fat, folded, and repeated a few times before being shaped into rough rounds and baked. The result is a flaky, savoury roll – a little bit like a savoury Scottish take on a croissant.
Aberdeen Butteries have a rich, savoury flavour with a hint of saltiness, thanks to the fat used in the dough. The texture is flaky and slightly chewy – almost pastry-like, and very moreish. They’re not sweet, which is why they work so well with a spreading of jam or marmalade.
No. Butteries (or Rowies) are quite different from Morning Rolls. Morning Rolls are soft, fluffy, and light, while butteries are rich, flaky, and layered with fat.
Not necessarily. Traditional recipes use lard or shortening for texture and improving the shelf-life, but many people prefer butter for its flavour. I find a mix of both works best; you get the authentic texture with a lovely buttery taste.
They’re delicious just as they are, but are traditionally eaten plain or spread with jam (always on the underside!). Some people enjoy them with marmalade or even alongside a fry-up.
Free-from & Vegan:
Gluten-Free: To make gluten-free Butteries / Rowies, you can use a strong gluten-free bread flour blend with xanthan gum included. The texture won’t be quite as flaky, but you should still get a tasty result.
Dairy-free: Swap the butter for a good-quality dairy-free block margarine (avoid soft spreads as they’re too oily) and use a vegetable shortening as opposed to lard.
Nut-Free: Butteries / rowies don’t contain nuts, so this recipe is naturally nut-free.
Vegan: To make these vegan Aberdeen butteries / rowies, simply follow the dairy-free steps above.
N.B. Any advice or suggestions to make recipes “free-from” or vegan are purely that – suggestions. Please be careful to double-check all ingredients individually, taking extra caution when serving to those with allergies & intolerances.
For more info on common food allergies, please see food.gov.uk | For more info on coeliac disease, please see coeliac.org.uk | For more info on a vegan diet, please see vegansociety.com
