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Pile of homemade Scottish butteries (rowies) with tartan cloth in background.

Butteries

Traditional Scottish Butteries, also known as Rowies, from Aberdeen. Flaky, savoury bread rolls made with layers of fat for a rich, pastry-like texture. Originally baked for fishermen heading out to sea, these hearty rolls keep well but are best enjoyed fresh from the oven, plain or with jam.
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Course: Breakfast, Side Dish, Snack
Cuisine: Scottish
Prep Time: 3 hours
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Servings: 8 rowies

INGREDIENTS

  • 500 g Strong White Flour (Bread Flour) (plus extra for dusting)
  • 7 g Fast-Action Yeast (usually 1 sachet)
  • 1 tbsp Soft Light Brown Sugar
  • 1 tsp Sea Salt
  • 300 ml Warm Water (not boiling)
  • 200 g Block Margarine or Butter
  • 100 g Lard or Vegetable Shortening

INSTRUCTIONS

  • Sift the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, sugar, and salt, and mix until combined. Make a well in the centre and pour in the warm water. Mix until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough - use your hands if needed.
  • Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until smooth and pliable.
  • Lightly grease a clean bowl, place the dough inside, and cover with greased cling film or a damp tea towel. Leave in a draught-free spot for 1–2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.
  • In a separate bowl, mix the margarine/butter and lard/shortening until combined. Set aside. Line two baking trays (with sides - not flat baking sheets) with greaseproof paper and set them aside.
  • Once the dough has doubled in size, gently knead it to release the air, then begin the lamination process:
    Roll the dough on a floured surface into a large rectangle, about 20x50cm.
    Spread ⅓ of the butter mixture over ⅔ of the dough (longways).
    Fold the unbuttered third inward, then fold the other end over it (like folding a letter).
    Rotate the dough 90°, roll it out again, and repeat with another ⅓ of the butter mixture.
    Perform this process one more time with the remaining ⅓ of the butter mixture. Don’t worry if some butter escapes, just dust with more flour as needed.
  • Roll the dough to about 1cm thick and shape into a rough rectangle. Divide into 8 pieces with a sharp knife. Pinch the edges underneath each piece to form rough, round, flat shapes, and place them on the prepared baking trays.
  • Loosely cover the butteries with greased cling film or a damp tea towel. Leave in a draught-free spot for 45 minutes, until slightly puffed up. Preheat your oven to 200°c (180°c fan-assisted ovens, Gas Mark 6 or 400°F).
  • Remove the covering and bake the butteries in the preheated oven for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Don't worry about the excess fat that has melted onto the trays - this is normal but be careful not to burn yourself with it.
  • Allow the butteries to cool slightly before lifting them from the trays (being careful of the hot fat) and transferring to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature, with jam spread on the underside.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

All my recipes are developed using a digital scale and the metric system (grams and millilitres). Cup measurements are available as a conversion but these, unfortunately, won't always be as accurate. For best results, I always recommend baking with a digital scale.

RECIPE NOTES:

  • Serving: Traditionally, Butteries are eaten plain or with jam spread on the underside. They’re also lovely with marmalade, or even served alongside a cooked breakfast. For the freshest taste, enjoy them warm from the oven.
  • Storage: Keep your Butteries in an airtight container at room temperature. Although Butteries were intended to be kept for a little while, they are best enjoyed within 2–3 days of baking - though their flavour and texture are best on the day they’re baked
  • Freezing: Butteries freeze really well. Once baked and cooled, pop them into a freezer bag and store for up to 3 months. To serve, defrost at room temperature and warm in a hot oven for a few minutes to refresh their flaky texture.
  • Substitutions:
    • Fat: Traditional Butteries use lard, but you can make them with lard, shortening, butter, margarine, or a mix of them. I find a combination of lard/shortening and butter/margarine gives the best flavour and texture.
    • Dairy-Free/Vegan: Use a good-quality dairy-free block margarine and vegetable shortening.
    • Flour: Strong white flour is best, but plain flour will also work if that’s what you have on hand, but the texture may be a little softer.
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